Sweptline.ORG

At the risk of asking a stupid question - how do you change the bulbs in these things? I am getting power to the turn signals, but they are not working. So my thought is that they need the bulbs replaced??? I have tried everything I know, and do not want to force things ans risk breaking them.

I am not sure how you do that... but I would soak the unit with some Kroil to loosen that rust/crud that is most likely on it.

Anyway... if you can't replace a bulb, how about changing the units lightbulb with an LED light? Just a thought...

Jim

It looks like I may have to go with an LED light - I have yet to figure out how to change the light bulb in this one. Which brings up the age old question - how many Aggies does it take to change a light bulb? Obviously it is more than one, because this Aggie can't figure it out.

So any suggestions on on LED replacement, or other things to try to change this one?

Someone somewhere has to know how. A friend has a polara or something with some on it. Wonder if they're any good or if I could look at them at figure it out.

My FIL is out back grilling and he's an Aggie, want me to ask him?

Haha. Maybe 2 is the right number of Aggies for this job! But you are right, there is bound to be a way to change them, and someone know how.

Pops is class of '79.

I'll take a look at my buddy's and see what kind of shape they're in and if they work.

They don't look that different from e-body ones so maybe you could just grab some repops.

I had not thought about them being the same as E-body's. I will look into that. Any suggestions on places to start looking?

Thanks for the help!

I like Roseville Moparts but I am sure there is a large source. I would think that as long as its close, it would be fine. If you're going concourse than you may have to step back.

wally426ci wrote:I like Roseville Moparts but I am sure there is a large source. I would think that as long as its close, it would be fine. If you're going concourse than you may have to step back.

Thanks - I will check them out. I am looking for something that is going to be a driver, not something show quality. I want to keep the look and feel as close to factory as I can, but it does not have to be perfect. So it sounds like Roseville may be just what I need to look into.

I'd like to see how they mount and run wire. I wouldn't mind looking into a set if they look right

LC from PA the on hood turn signal bulbs are held in place by the threaded collar that the wire goes up thru the inner threads are justed crimped to the mounting plate DO NOT use a lot of turning force or you will break the crimp loose and you are in need of a Replacement this unit may look like the ones on the carlines but the trucks mount different trucks use a bolt and speednut and cars use a screw down thru the light that is the main different the bulbs are very small and are hard to find I will try to find the part ## in my books and post it if I find it the wiring runs down the channel in the hood support on each side and runs together to junction on firewall and is tapped into turnsignal output if you get the bulb out you can replace the lens it will slide out lots of Luck on getting them apart I have broken several myself trying LC

LC from Pa from a early post bulb # 330

LC wrote:LC from PA the on hood turn signal bulbs are held in place by the threaded collar that the wire goes up thru the inner threads are justed crimped to the mounting plate DO NOT use a lot of turning force or you will break the crimp loose and you are in need of a Replacement this unit may look like the ones on the carlines but the trucks mount different trucks use a bolt and speednut and cars use a screw down thru the light that is the main different the bulbs are very small and are hard to find I will try to find the part ## in my books and post it if I find it the wiring runs down the channel in the hood support on each side and runs together to junction on firewall and is tapped into turnsignal output if you get the bulb out you can replace the lens it will slide out lots of Luck on getting them apart I have broken several myself trying LC

Thanks LC. I figured they must be threaded on, but have been unable to get them to unscrew. I have tried WD40 and vice grips - I guess I will have to try something different. Any thoughts on a different penitrant that might work better? They are not a left hand thread for some odd reason, are they?

Good info.

Earlier car signals used a stud as well so you can do some searching:

I like Herb's too and he is local to me sort of:
http://www.herbsparts.com/proddetail.as ... 52&cat=671

1969IndianaDodgeMan wrote: Any thoughts on a different penetrant that might work better?

Kroil is probably the BEST penetrant that I have ever used. It stinks though...

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Jims68 wrote:

1969IndianaDodgeMan wrote: Any thoughts on a different penetrant that might work better?

Kroil is probably the BEST penetrant that I have ever used. It stinks though...

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Thanks Jim. Stinky I can handle, as long as it works. I will see if I can find it locally , if not, I will order some and see what happens.

Donnie

1969IndianaDodgeMan wrote:

Jims68 wrote:

1969IndianaDodgeMan wrote: Any thoughts on a different penetrant that might work better?

Kroil is probably the BEST penetrant that I have ever used. It stinks though...

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Thanks Jim. Stinky I can handle, as long as it works. I will see if I can find it locally , if not, I will order some and see what happens.

Donnie

50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone just have to make sure you keep it mixed...Maybe I'm just too shadetree/oldschool/redneck

Maybe I'm onto something...bored at work!

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/thread ... rating-Oil

Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts with significant results!

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the
control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment (obviously a BIG nut!).

Penetrating oil ...... Average torque



None ....................... 516 ft lbs



WD-40 ................... 238 ft lbs



PB Blaster .............. 214 ft lbs



Liquid Wrench ..... 127 ft lbs



Kano Kroil ............. 106 ft lbs



ATF-Acetone mix....53 ft lbs

Crazy! I never heard of that "mix" before! Nice find!

Jim