4x4 question. (not sure where to put it)

[oklamopar]

I have a (actually my son's) 2001 Dodge 1500 4x4.
My question is for the power wagon gents.
Under the front is the Dana 44 with the C.A.D. (central axle disconnect).
When we got it they had installed a 4x4 cable disconnect. http://4x4posi-lok.com/app_dodge.html
It does not want to engage consistently.
Now that that is over with.
I was wanting to bypass the currant cable set up and go with one of the #1100. from the previous link.
this truck will be driven to and from hunting areas. On the highways and such.
i know that some of the older PW did not have lock outs.
If the kit #1100 was installed, do y'all (all opinions) wanted and appreciated.
As i have grown to trust a lot of the members here.
will be a dependable install. We do plan on doing a http://www.emsoffroad.com/store/index.p ... cts_id=350 in time.
Just wanting to get through this winter and hunting season.

Thanks for bearing with me.

[dodgeboykim]

That axle kit looks like the way to go. And you can install locking hubs down the road. But if you found a complete front diff from an 80to 83/84 using the style without the CAD system so you wont have the axle tube lump. Or you can rob it of parts to the CAD delete. Different ways to accomplish your goal.

[DavidWymore]

Hi, Skip

I'm not sure I understand what you're saying...it has the Posi lock now, but needs a new cable, and the plan is to replace the cable until you get the EMS axleshaft?

I have owned and been around Jeeps and Dodges of that era, and I would just eliminate the disconnecting junk like they did in later years, either with the EMS axleshaft or by just getting it in the locked position and leaving it there.

You might could swap the knuckles off the earlier style axle to get the locking hubs, but there may be ABS sensors in the '01 unit bearings (which are junk too). Axle shaft length may be an issue with swapping knuckles.

Taking the brackets from the late axle to the early axle would be tricky, but I saw one guy do it with a Jeep axle by making a jig that bolted to and connected all the brackets on the late model axle, cut it all off, and welded to the old style axle.

[dodgeboykim]

Darn do I feel silly. Year of vehicle never clicked in my head. Was thinking 91 not 01. Slap me to the ground and run me over with your 4x4. On another note the sliding collar used in the front end may be worn out causing it to pop out of the locked mode.

[DavidWymore]

I learned the hard way that if power is applied when the collar is partially engaged, it will mess up the collar and shaft splines.

Like I said, on a budget, I'd lock the sucker up manually if necessary and leave it.

In an emergency, you can remove the cover, remove the sliding fork, reverse it, manually engage the collar, and put the fork on it in the reversed position and it should stay engaged.

[oklamopar]

David, I guess my question is is there any danger in just locking the right hand axle together. They say its for "off road use only".
But if i lock them together will it be safe?
I know the earlier ones were. and the only way to make it work was with the transfer case. (without locking hubs)

[DavidWymore]

Skip, I think the only downside would be fuel mileage, and I think those trucks didn't get very good mileage anyways. Wink. I know the older trucks didn't have locking hubs as you had said and all the newer trucks and jeeps don't have hubs, nor do they have axle disconnects. The only disconnect is disconnecting the transfer case. If that were to stay locked, then yes you would have a problem. I just thought of one other downside and that is that the front driveshaft will have to be in tiptop shape so that it doesn't vibrate. The double cardan joint at the transfer case needs to be taken off and greased periodically or it will give you fits, and they're very expensive. The ball and socket in the middle between the two you joints doesn't really have a good way to lubricate it and when it goes you're pretty much done. Well, actually if you catch it early sometimes you can put a ball and socket kit in it and maybe get by, but if it starts to vibrate, stop driving it and take it out immediately, because if you go too long, then you have to replace the whole joint, and they are two or $300 plus the labor to put them on.

[oklamopar]

That is a good point, I had forgotten that the front drive shaft would be turning. As far as fuel mpg's never have i worried about that. My trucks have always gotten at least 10.
Took it apart again. fount the fork is worn from the pads being gone.
Guess i will start with a new fork.
This is why I like this place.
Everyone knows something about something sweptline or not.