Ballast Resistor Question

[paizao99]

Looking to change out the Ballast Resistor. Figured since I've changed everything else on the Ignition System, might as well address this cheap part. NAPA sells the part but their program says that the Part number is ICR12, but this is an irregular part number and is only located in FL. Shipping would be just as much as the part itself. Some other part numbers are on hand and are only slightly different:
ICR11 1.35 ohms
ICR13 1.82 ohms
ICR23 1.20 ohms

Will these other parts work for my '64 D200?

Thanks again for all the help.

[Hobcobble]

PN#ECHICR12 @ $6.99 from NAPA Online.
Your store shouldn't have to look to FL
for this part.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/N ... l+Resistor
John

[rjmeuer]

Just looked it up, the ICR12 is a bit of a rare part (only about 5 in the country). ICR12 has a 1.75 OHM rating, so go with an ICR13 1.82 OHM. It is a very popular GM resistor and should be in every store. Ive used it on my truck for years with no problems.

The funny thing is, the ICR13 is more than 2x the cost so is it worth it to just have them ship the right part? Cost would be about the same.

[junior]

I used a ballast resistor from a valiant. Been in place 6 months and no problems.

[nfury8]

As far as ballasts go, they have more to do with the ignition type than vehicle.

I read a technical document awhile back where a Mopar tech had said to use 1 ohm.
But I don't remember if that was all ignitions, or just ECU based ignitions?

The lower the ohm, the more juice the coil gets when running.
A higher ohm would lower the volts, but would lower temps and might
add some life to the coil, if you are eating coils faster than expected.

[WAWII]

My understanding (although I've not checked it) is that the ballast resistance is supposed to be the same as the coil you are using. I know when I add the Accell Super Coil to the Mopar Electronic Ignitions, it has me add an additional Ballast. I've since measured the two resistors and use a single one of the same rating as the two combined. The purpose of the Ballast is to reduce the coil's voltage to prevent it from burning up from excessive voltage. Mopar uses a Ballast bypass on start to get more/hotter spark for starting.

[Cageman]

I dont run a ballast on anything. I just use a jumper wire or changed the wire altogether I have 12 vehicles running this way, so I dont think it is a fluke.

[Russ]

This info comes from my 69-70 FSM but I think it's valid for all 61-68 Swepts as well, as the ignition system didn't really change during those years. The original p/n for the ballast is 2095501 and the resistance is .5 to .6 ohms at 70-80 degrees F. This applies to all engines that were available during those years. The ballast is a "compensating" resistor, which means the resistance varies as the resistor heats up and cools back down. During idling it heats up as it's conducting for longer periods, and the resistance increases which lowers the current through the coil. At high speeds it cools and the resistance decreases allowing more current which is needed at high engine speed. The FSM also listed two possible coils for all engines. Chrysler-Prestolite, p/n 2444242, with 1.65 to 1.79 ohms primary resistance, or Chrysler-Essex, p/n 2444241, with 1.41 to 1.55 ohms primary resistance. All measurements are at 70-80 degrees F.
The resistance shown in the FSM seems to be much lower than the NAPA books show. I checked my 1976 Chrysler car FSM out of curiosity. A dual ballast was used in that year but the run side, the side that serves the same function that the single ballast does, was also shown to be .5 ohms.
I always thought that all single ballasts used in Chrysler products were the same. I do know that the new ballast that came with my MP ignition setup was the same as the original on my 69 truck.

[junior]

I think I may have read somewhere,sometime that there is also a coil that has an internally built in resister. I am not for sure though.

[1964ShortyD100]

Does anyone know anything about a four (4) prong resistor? It is on the left side of the engine bay (opposite the ballast resistor) and has two plugs that connect various wires to it. My harness is mutilated and I don't know where anything goes, or what should connect to it... This is driving my crazy. I have looked at several different wiring diagrams and can't find it. Does anyone have a 1964 D100 wiring diagram that they could share?

I have addressed all other major issues, now if I can just get the wiring done, I'll be on the road...

Thanks guys

[Hobcobble]

Does anyone know anything about a four (4) prong resistor? It is on the left side of the engine bay (opposite the ballast resistor) and has two plugs that connect various wires to it. My harness is mutilated and I don't know where anything goes, or what should connect to it... This is driving my crazy. I have looked at several different wiring diagrams and can't find it. Does anyone have a 1964 D100 wiring diagram that they could share?

I have addressed all other major issues, now if I can just get the wiring done, I'll be on the road...

Thanks guys

Try this:
http://www.sweptline.com/tech/62_65wire.jpg
John

[1964ShortyD100]

Thanks for the diagram, John.

Now that I look at it, I realize that my wiring situation was a total basket case. My alternator, although it is brand new, has 3 wires instead of 2. Also, along with the 4 prong resistor, there is also another part (who knows what it is) that is tied into the alternator. My guess is that they "upgraded" the alternator and added some components to make it work (which it didn't, something burned out and now it won't start.)

I just called NAPA and found a correct alternator for $44, I'll pick it up tomorrow and drop it in and let you guys know how it goes!
I'm almost back to stock now, as far as wiring goes thanks to Scott Blaylock who gave me a great deal on an engine harness.
I'll get some pictures up to show you guys my "interesting" project. It's truly one of a kind.

Thanks again,
-Noah

[Russ]

Noah, before you buy that new alternator why not post up some pics from under the hood of you truck. I, or others here, can probably identify what you have or are in question about. It sounds like someone upgraded to the newer style (better) alternator and regulator. If so you'll be better off to keep it. The wiring is simple and any of the wiring and connectors you need can be gotten from the nearest Pull-A-Part for very little money.
Apparently someone upgraded the ignition also. That four terminal (dual) ballast, if that's what you have, was used on cars and trucks in the seventies. To be of any benefit it requires the correct control module with an extra pin in the connector. The lower section of it is the same as the single ballast that earlier Mopars used.
I'm over in Lawrenceville, not too far away. We Sweptliners from this area should all get together as soon as it warms up a little.

[1964ShortyD100]

Thanks for the advice, Russ. I'll add some pictures to this post.





Hopefully I can get this sorted out soon. Please let me know when you guys plan to meet, I'd love to bring my truck out and meet you guys.
It would be nice to know some local Sweptline guys.

And just a heads up, I'll be looking for a decent '69 D100 SWB as my next project. I found 2 very decent '65-'67 trucks right near my house, but I think the headlight rings look like pie pans . It's just not my thing.

Thanks again for all your help,
-Noah

[1964ShortyD100]

Ok, for some reason the images didn't attach.

I'll try simply posting the URLs

http://www.flickr.com/photos/47602890@N07/4364711671/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/47602890@N07/4365453946/

I hope these work.

[WAWII]

4365453946 is the Chrysler Electronic Ignition box.

[1964ShortyD100]

Thanks for your imput, Will!

Knowing what this is helps me out greatly, but I'm still not sure how I can make it work (half of the wires weren't connected to anything...) However they[the previous owners] rigged it up, it wasn't right. They bypassed the primary ballast resistor, and ended up shorting something out. I found several melted wires and a melted bluk head plug. It's a miricle that they didn't burn the whole thing up!

I'm going to drop in the new alternator for now, because I'm not an experianced electrician, I can only follow the stock diagram I have.

I plan to upgrade in the near future, but I want to do it right. Any suggestions? Should I hold onto the alternator I'm about to take out?

Thanks,
-Noah

[CSS-Registry]

try this diagram for getting your electronic ignition to work:

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/3.html

these work well and with a basic test light you can find your "ignition on" and "ignition run" wires - these rest of the diagrams will help you wire in either the four prong resistor or the two prong.

i got a 65 Valiant running using these diagrams that had all the wires cut at the firewall and a wire-nest under the hood.

fun stuff!

Ben

[1964ShortyD100]

Ok, that's cool. Thanks for the diagram, Ben!

I think I can get this hooked up correctly now, but due to my current lack of electrical aptitude, I will have to ask a stupid question. What is the main advantage of this setup vs. the stock setup?

I have a not so stupid question also: What about the 4 prong resistor? Can I throw it out? I have not seen it on any diagram, and I purchased a brand new 2 prong from Napa the other day.

Any idea how to test the ignition box to make sure it's good? I'd bet money that it's burned up. And should I just put a cap or tape on the end of the unused green wire?

Thanks again for all your help, I really think I'm making good progress on this project!
I'll keep you guys posted. Until next time,
-Noah

[WAWII]

If memory serves me correctly, the dual basalt resistors were used on some MoPars that used one to start, and both to run.

This type of electronic ignition was also a stock setup on some MoPars as well, don't remember the years though. I swapped my 79 Magnum out from "Lean Burn" to the "Chrome" version of this in 1980, and used the "orange" version when I built my V-8 for the M37. Not sure how to test it other than wire it in and run it.

My Accel Super coil required an added resistor, but I later swapped them out for a single of the correct resistance.