another scarebird
- flyinbrick68
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another scarebird
ok im getting ready to start my conversion gathering all the parts I need that tech write up was very helpful!! after I moved things get shuffled around ect I see that my backing plates are just that backing plates with no mounting hardware... how do the calipers attach to the backing plates ie... are they a floating caliper that slides on the bolts ect a fixed caliper? im no that familiar with a gm product so I guess im asking if I just need to be able to bolt the caliper to the bracket and not worry about it moving ect for the pads...I suppose every manufacturer does it differently... any insight would be appreciated as I really need that added stopping power.
thanks guys
thanks guys
- MrMopar
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Re: another scarebird
Once you have the adapter plate bolted on you will slide the caliper on to the rotor in the space for it in the adapter. Then the two bolts are put in, the caliper slides on these bolts and is held in place by the bracket. It should be pretty obvious when you are in there.
Look at the pictures that others have posted both on the 5 lug and 8 lug installations and you should have a better idea what is going on.
Alan
Look at the pictures that others have posted both on the 5 lug and 8 lug installations and you should have a better idea what is going on.
Alan
- flyinbrick68
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Re: another scarebird
Thanks Only Think Im MissinG Is The Mounting Bolts Then
- MrMopar
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Re: another scarebird
You use the drum backing plate bolts. On the 8 lug two of the bolts needed to be machined per the instructions.flyinbrick68 wrote:Thanks Only Think Im MissinG Is The Mounting Bolts Then
Alan
- flyinbrick68
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Re: another scarebird
Bottom Holes NeedEd Opened Up To 5/8 On My Mounting Brackets Found MY Kingpins Have Slack In Em So That'll Be next
- flyinbrick68
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Re: another scarebird
thanks got everything mounted and put together was able to get one kingpin changed didn't have any luck getting the passenger side out so guess thatl go to the shop to get fix. Now I have to get rid of my soft pedal something doesn't seem quite right so ill have to have some one help bleed the brakes and I hope that fixes it. anyone have any problems with a soft pedal after the install? itl pump up after a few pumps which isn't normal then if it sits for a few seconds goes soft again. seems like its getting air somewhere...
Re: another scarebird
Did you install a new master cylinder by chance?
John
John
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Re: another scarebird
If he did not replumb the brake lines and proportioning valve, he needs to make sure that the larger resevoir goes to the front brakes. Jim
- flyinbrick68
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Re: another scarebird
YeP NeW Master New Lines To THe Front Looked Seems To Be THe Rear Line On Both The Prop Valve And Master Cylinder. Tried Bench Bleeding The Master Cylinder Maybe I Didnt Get It Bled enough
- flyinbrick68
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Re: another scarebird
Thanks guys
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Re: another scarebird
There is no factory proportioning valve on swepts.
The block on the frame is merely a differential pressure indicator switch that activates the red "brake" idiot light on the dash.
The block on the frame is merely a differential pressure indicator switch that activates the red "brake" idiot light on the dash.
- flyinbrick68
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Re: another scarebird
Was Wandering Thanks. I May Need To Plumb One In Later If I Can Get All The Air Out Of the system.
Re: another scarebird
I'd bench bleed the master again to be 100% sure. Also, you will need a proportioning valveflyinbrick68 wrote:Was Wandering Thanks. I May Need To Plumb One In Later If I Can Get All The Air Out Of the system.
if you're running a power booster along with those front disc brakes. You don't want to "kiss"
the windshield....
John
- flyinbrick68
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Re: another scarebird
Thanks Guys NopE No Booster Ill Bench Bleed It Again An Then Go Through An HavE SomE Assistance Bleeding Th rest
- flyinbrick68
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Re: another scarebird
well I cant get it to bleed bench bled it several times. I hear a gurlgling from in the cab if you pump the pedal then wait a few seconds it sounds like the master cylinder is sucking air. im going to try a new master cylinder as I think the one I had was a reman and maybe the seals were bad in it so if I have the same problem ill start checking for leaks else where. I did replace the left rear wheel cylinder probably wouldn't hurt to do the right rear also at least I know none of those would be leaking but seems to work fine before. I just don't want to have to pump the brakes 3 or 4 times to get a good pedal each time I stop you know? so hopefully the new master cylinder fixes that. if not then ive got issues elsewhere ill need to find and correct.
thank you all for you input. I appreciate the knowledge. oh and looks like ill either have to transplant the parts off the 70 or try and find new drums. from what ive read on here doesn't sound to promising finding new drums anywhere.
thank you all for you input. I appreciate the knowledge. oh and looks like ill either have to transplant the parts off the 70 or try and find new drums. from what ive read on here doesn't sound to promising finding new drums anywhere.
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Re: another scarebird
Go with a 73 and up master cylinder and emphasis disc brakes. Jim
- flyinbrick68
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Re: another scarebird
Thanks Jim Wish I Woulda Read It Earlier I Ordered A 72 For Disks HOpe It Works Out.
- flyinbrick68
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Re: another scarebird
Ivw Got A Leak somewhere New Wheel Cylinders On The Rea So Ill NeeD To Narrow IT Down Which Side Is Bad. Can I Do That by Plugging On Side Of The Master Ie Front Or Rear Then Try An Bleed The Rest? !I Didnt Try Gravity Bleeding Unfortunatly. Guess I CoUld Try That Im Stumped...
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Re: another scarebird
I gravity bled my fronts and the rears were SOP without problems. Do the RR before the LR and let your pedal come up slowly and push it down slowly. Easiest to pressure bleed them. I had to lock them up the other day and was surprised how well they worked(front and rear drum), but I did a complete M/C to new hardware kit job. Did you turn your rear drums?, luckily mine had never been turned on my '68 D100. If that doesn't work, have a shop bleed them, they'll probably pressure bleed them. Check all your rubber lines too and that the hard lines are seated right and not stripped.flyinbrick68 wrote:Ivw Got A Leak somewhere New Wheel Cylinders On The Rea So Ill NeeD To Narrow IT Down Which Side Is Bad. Can I Do That by Plugging On Side Of The Master Ie Front Or Rear Then Try An Bleed The Rest? !I Didnt Try Gravity Bleeding Unfortunatly. Guess I CoUld Try That Im Stumped...
- flyinbrick68
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Re: another scarebird
Ill Have To Check All The Hard Line ThanKs... Had Decent Brakes Not Great Before The Front Disk Swap. If I Have To Ill Ru All New Lines AnD Fittings. My Craftsman Bleeder Is A Po Cant Get It To Seal Right To Use It So May Look Into A Mighty Vac.