Sweptline.ORG

ok im getting ready to start my conversion gathering all the parts I need that tech write up was very helpful!! after I moved things get shuffled around ect I see that my backing plates are just that backing plates with no mounting hardware... how do the calipers attach to the backing plates ie... are they a floating caliper that slides on the bolts ect a fixed caliper? im no that familiar with a gm product so I guess im asking if I just need to be able to bolt the caliper to the bracket and not worry about it moving ect for the pads...I suppose every manufacturer does it differently... any insight would be appreciated as I really need that added stopping power.

thanks guys

Once you have the adapter plate bolted on you will slide the caliper on to the rotor in the space for it in the adapter. Then the two bolts are put in, the caliper slides on these bolts and is held in place by the bracket. It should be pretty obvious when you are in there.

Look at the pictures that others have posted both on the 5 lug and 8 lug installations and you should have a better idea what is going on.

Alan

Thanks Only Think Im MissinG Is The Mounting Bolts Then

flyinbrick68 wrote:Thanks Only Think Im MissinG Is The Mounting Bolts Then

You use the drum backing plate bolts. On the 8 lug two of the bolts needed to be machined per the instructions.

Alan

Bottom Holes NeedEd Opened Up To 5/8 On My Mounting Brackets Found MY Kingpins Have Slack In Em So That'll Be next

thanks got everything mounted and put together was able to get one kingpin changed didn't have any luck getting the passenger side out so guess thatl go to the shop to get fix. Now I have to get rid of my soft pedal something doesn't seem quite right so ill have to have some one help bleed the brakes and I hope that fixes it. anyone have any problems with a soft pedal after the install? itl pump up after a few pumps which isn't normal then if it sits for a few seconds goes soft again. seems like its getting air somewhere...

Did you install a new master cylinder by chance?
John

If he did not replumb the brake lines and proportioning valve, he needs to make sure that the larger resevoir goes to the front brakes. Jim

YeP NeW Master New Lines To THe Front Looked Seems To Be THe Rear Line On Both The Prop Valve And Master Cylinder. Tried Bench Bleeding The Master Cylinder Maybe I Didnt Get It Bled enough

Thanks guys

There is no factory proportioning valve on swepts.
The block on the frame is merely a differential pressure indicator switch that activates the red "brake" idiot light on the dash.

Was Wandering Thanks. I May Need To Plumb One In Later If I Can Get All The Air Out Of the system.

flyinbrick68 wrote:Was Wandering Thanks. I May Need To Plumb One In Later If I Can Get All The Air Out Of the system.

I'd bench bleed the master again to be 100% sure. Also, you will need a proportioning valve
if you're running a power booster along with those front disc brakes. You don't want to "kiss"
the windshield....
John

Thanks Guys NopE No Booster Ill Bench Bleed It Again An Then Go Through An HavE SomE Assistance Bleeding Th rest

well I cant get it to bleed bench bled it several times. I hear a gurlgling from in the cab if you pump the pedal then wait a few seconds it sounds like the master cylinder is sucking air. im going to try a new master cylinder as I think the one I had was a reman and maybe the seals were bad in it so if I have the same problem ill start checking for leaks else where. I did replace the left rear wheel cylinder probably wouldn't hurt to do the right rear also at least I know none of those would be leaking but seems to work fine before. I just don't want to have to pump the brakes 3 or 4 times to get a good pedal each time I stop you know? so hopefully the new master cylinder fixes that. if not then ive got issues elsewhere ill need to find and correct.

thank you all for you input. I appreciate the knowledge. oh and looks like ill either have to transplant the parts off the 70 or try and find new drums. from what ive read on here doesn't sound to promising finding new drums anywhere.

Go with a 73 and up master cylinder and emphasis disc brakes. Jim

Thanks Jim Wish I Woulda Read It Earlier I Ordered A 72 For Disks HOpe It Works Out.

Ivw Got A Leak somewhere New Wheel Cylinders On The Rea So Ill NeeD To Narrow IT Down Which Side Is Bad. Can I Do That by Plugging On Side Of The Master Ie Front Or Rear Then Try An Bleed The Rest? !I Didnt Try Gravity Bleeding Unfortunatly. Guess I CoUld Try That Im Stumped...

flyinbrick68 wrote:Ivw Got A Leak somewhere New Wheel Cylinders On The Rea So Ill NeeD To Narrow IT Down Which Side Is Bad. Can I Do That by Plugging On Side Of The Master Ie Front Or Rear Then Try An Bleed The Rest? !I Didnt Try Gravity Bleeding Unfortunatly. Guess I CoUld Try That Im Stumped...

I gravity bled my fronts and the rears were SOP without problems. Do the RR before the LR and let your pedal come up slowly and push it down slowly. Easiest to pressure bleed them. I had to lock them up the other day and was surprised how well they worked(front and rear drum), but I did a complete M/C to new hardware kit job. Did you turn your rear drums?, luckily mine had never been turned on my '68 D100. If that doesn't work, have a shop bleed them, they'll probably pressure bleed them. Check all your rubber lines too and that the hard lines are seated right and not stripped.

Ill Have To Check All The Hard Line ThanKs... Had Decent Brakes Not Great Before The Front Disk Swap. If I Have To Ill Ru All New Lines AnD Fittings. My Craftsman Bleeder Is A Po Cant Get It To Seal Right To Use It So May Look Into A Mighty Vac.