D200 brake rebuild

[brothermo]

I'd like some advice on rebuilding the brake system on my truck. This is a 1966 D200 with the 225 /6. When I bought this truck (a little over 9 years ago), it's engine was on the way out and the brakes only worked on two wheels. The engine has since been rebuilt, and I'm getting close to getting it fired back up.

So here's my current situation: the brake system was the first thing I tried to fix 9 years ago when I bought the truck. I replaced everything from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders, new shoes, turned rotors, etc. It was a good project to learn on, but I didn't do a great job. For example, instead of learning to double flare the hard lines and buy a roll of tubing, I cobbled together shorter lengths of pre-fab brake line that were already flared. I also had a bear of a time getting good connections at the brake booster, and I know that at least one of these connections is still not tight. Additionally, some parts I replaced have now failed (most notably the master cylinder, which leaks to the cab). Obviously, these are all things that I need to fix correctly before this truck is back on the road.

This is becoming a rambling post but the bottom line is I'm looking at a redo of the brake system, and I'm willing to consider some changes as I go. Here's what I currently have:

- single reservoir master cylinder
- brake booster under the driver's side cab
- drum brakes all 4 wheels

Since the master cylinder needs replaced anyway, I'm definitely looking for alternatives to the single reservoir. I also don't know anything about the type of booster that came with this truck. I understand how it works, but since this truck was barely running when I bought it, I don't know if it works well compared to other booster options. I'm also consider a front disc conversion, although I think I'd prefer to keep the drums for the time being.

I've been searching the posts on these topics and will continue to do so, but I thought I'd go ahead and start a conversation here. If you've read this far, thanks for your patience s, and I really appreciate the advice!

[Johninky]

I would lose the hydrovac booster to begin with. Ten years ago I replaced the MC on my 66 with a booster and MC originally for a 72 Chevy C20. Bolted right up. Only had to lengthen the rod from the pedal to the MC. Never checked but the rod for the Chevy probably would have negated if that simple modification.

[Txas2step]

Robertod recently did a complete brake jod on his d200....maybe he can give you some pointers. Where in Houston are you? Chris.

[robertob]

Yeah I just did mine - pretty straightforward, all the parts are still avail. If it were my truck I would convert to a firewall booster and dual master. I found an original 68 d200 booster for mine, but I almost converted to the chev one (it's actually the same booster and master with a few minor differences).

[brothermo]

Robertod recently did a complete brake jod on his d200....maybe he can give you some pointers. Where in Houston are you? Chris.

Just inside the loop in the Heights. Probably moving soon, though.

Yeah I just did mine - pretty straightforward, all the parts are still avail. If it were my truck I would convert to a firewall booster and dual master. I found an original 68 d200 booster for mine, but I almost converted to the chev one (it's actually the same booster and master with a few minor differences).

That's kinda what I was thinking, converting to the chevy booster and dual MC. I'd need to install a proportioning valve if I did that, correct?

[Txas2step]

Robertod recently did a complete brake jod on his d200....maybe he can give you some pointers. Where in Houston are you? Chris.

Just inside the loop in the Heights. Probably moving soon, though.

Yeah I just did mine - pretty straightforward, all the parts are still avail. If it were my truck I would convert to a firewall booster and dual master. I found an original 68 d200 booster for mine, but I almost converted to the chev one (it's actually the same booster and master with a few minor differences).

That's kinda what I was thinking, converting to the chevy booster and dual MC. I'd need to install a proportioning valve if I did that, correct?

Wow!... too funny,I'm just outside the loop in Garden Oaks.Chris.

[robertob]

That's kinda what I was thinking, converting to the chevy booster and dual MC. I'd need to install a proportioning valve if I did that, correct?

The factory setup for dual circuit does not have a prop valve. Just a distribution block, and in '68, a differential pressure switch for the brake failure light. I didn't add one to mine and it stops nice and straight. I would add one if I did a disk brake conversion but with my drums it seems to work pretty well. I did put the softer (grippier) shoes I had on the front axle which would tend to increase front bias but I can't say for sure it makes much actual difference.